Asparagus is delicious, nutritious, and one of the most expensive vegetables you can buy. Unfortunately, it’s also one of the most challenging vegetables to grow indoors. But, the rewards are many for those who take on the challenge.
This guide explains how to get started, when to harvest, and the upkeep requirements to grow asparagus indoors. Before you start, however, we hope you are ready for a very long term commitment.
Brief History of Asparagus
Depictions of asparagus in Egyptian culture date back to 3000 BC, and the earliest asparagus recipe exists in a cookbook from the 1st century AD. By 1469, it was cultivated in French monasteries, then England in 1538. Asparagus was brought to North America by settlers as early as 1655.
Today, the United States, Germany, and Canada are top asparagus importers. China produces the most asparagus. Now you can grow asparagus indoors!
Flavor of Asparagus
It’s hard to describe the taste of asparagus. It’s a strong flavor often compared to mushrooms or broccoli. It can also taste bitter to some people. Similar to a lot of vegetables, asparagus will soak up flavors of herbs and spices when cooking with it.
The Smell of Asparagus After Eating
Most people who eat asparagus will notice a pungency when they urinate. This comes from asparagusic acid that is broken down in our bodies while eating asparagus. The acid turns into a sulfur containing byproduct. Interestingly, this does not happen to everyone.
Health Benefits of Asparagus
Asparagus, or Asparagus officinalis, is a member of the lily family and comes in various colors, including green, white, and purple. It’s also low in calories and packs a ton of nutrients and benefits in a small package.
High in Nutrients, Low in Calories
Half a cup of cooked asparagus contains just 20 calories, 2.2 grams of protein, 1.8 grams of fiber, and vitamins C, A, K, folate, potassium, phosphorous, and Vitamin E. It’s a great source of vitamin K, offering 57% of the recommended daily intake in that half cup.
Provides Antioxidants
Antioxidants help protect cells and help in aging, inflammation, and to fight many diseases.
Improves Digestive Health
Asparagus is high in insoluble fiber, which aids in digestive health and feeds good bacteria in your gut, strengthening your immune system.
Helps Support Pregnancy
Asparagus is an excellent source of folate. Which is an essential nutrient for healthy growth and development.
Lowers Blood Pressure
Potassium can lower blood pressure, and a half-cup serving of asparagus provides 6% of your daily potassium requirement. Great reasons to grow asparagus indoors.
Grow Asparagus Indoors
As mentioned, growing asparagus indoors is quite challenging. You’re going to need an area that is sufficient in resources and tall enough that its ferns can develop fully. Asparagus ferns can reach several feet high. If you live in a small apartment, you may want to invest in a corner planter or even grow lights to provide more flexibility in placement.
Preparing Your Indoor Space
Growing asparagus is not for the beginning indoor gardener. It’s challenging and wrought with twists and turns. Okay, not really twists and turns, but certainly it requires a lot of patience. But, those who are successful can take a lot of pride in accomplishing what many other indoor gardeners cannot.
Container
Asparagus has a significant root system that needs plenty of room to grow. You’ll need a well-draining container that is at least eight inches deep. You’ll also want something durable because the asparagus will be in it for a very long time.
Potting Mix
Asparagus needs loose, loamy soil. It requires well-draining soil, or it will die off. You can use equal parts compost, vermiculite, perlite, and even sand if you wish.
Spacing
When planting outdoors, asparagus is typically spaced well apart. However, since we’re growing asparagus indoors, we don’t have that luxury. The good news is that with extra care, attention, and feeding, you can actually plant your asparagus closer together than you might think. Space each asparagus plant 1 to 2 inches from each other if starting from seed. Crowns will need more space, depending on the size of their roots. Important to take into account when you grow asparagus indoors.
Fertilizer
A well-balanced fertilizer will help your asparagus do well every year and live a long time. When initially planting, supply a good amount of fertilizer (1-2 cups). You won’t need to feed your asparagus again until the end of the season (about ¼ a cup). The following spring, you’ll provide them another ¼ cup.
Light Requirements
Asparagus requires at least six hours of sun per day. More is better. If using grow lights, you may need to provide up to 12 hours per day instead.
Watering
Keep your plant well-watered but not overly wet. Stick your finger into the soil about two inches down; if it’s damp, don’t water it. Depending on your drainage, you may need to water twice a week.
Winter Care
To care for your asparagus during the winter, use mulch or loose covering to keep the crowns from getting too cold. Asparagus can tolerate very cold weather, but your plant will suffer from it if it gets below 0 degrees Fahrenheit. If kept inside all winter, you should be okay.
The Best Way to Plant Asparagus
Most people who grow asparagus choose to do it from the asparagus crowns. Crowns are the one-year-old roots of asparagus. These are typically sold in garden centers and cut a whole year off harvest time. By choosing crowns, you may begin to harvest your asparagus during its second year of growth instead of year three or four. The faster the better when you grow asparagus indoors.
How to Plant Asparagus Crowns
- Choose crowns that look healthy with a lot of roots.
- Dip the roots into water to hydrate them.
- Dig a hole about six inches deep, and make the hole large to help fan out the roots.
- The crowns should stay in the middle, facing upward, while the roots spread out below.
- Cover entirely with loose soil. The top of the crowns should not be buried deep. Any stems coming from them should be poking out of the top.
- Depending on the size of your pot or planter, you can plant several crowns.
- Water immediately.
How to Grow Asparagus From Seed
Planting asparagus from seed is not recommended because it takes at least a full year longer to harvest. But, if you like a challenge, here’s how you do it:
- As mentioned above, choose a loose, loamy potting mix.
- Soak seeds in water for 3 to 6 hours before planting.
- Plant asparagus seeds about ½ inch deep and at least a few inches apart.
- Feed once growth starts with a balanced fertilizer.
- As your asparagus grows, water it regularly, using the guide above–keep moist, but not overly wet.
- Provide plants with at least six hours of sun per day. 12 hours if under grow lights.
The Long Harvest
Remember earlier we mentioned that if you’re going to plant asparagus, you need a lot of patience? Well, asparagus takes up to 3 or 4 years before you should harvest it. Let’s discuss what happens during the first couple of years to your asparagus plant.
Year One
The asparagus will develop strong roots and grow long shoots and stems during year one. However, the stems are thin, and the tops of the asparagus actually grow into very large ferns. Some of these ferns will produce seeds; these are female asparagus. If you want to collect the seeds, you should; otherwise, they will drop into your soil. Asparagus ferns will turn brown and die off at the end of the growing season. Cut the fern down to the soil and dispose of it. You can also place some on top of the planter to use as a mulch and protect the plant during the winter.
During year one, you could harvest a few thin spears but do not harvest the majority of your asparagus. You want them to continue to produce as you continue to grow asparagus indoors.
Year Two
At the beginning of the season, feed your asparagus. Once again, the stems will grow, a little thicker and longer this time. Then the ferns will grow again. Let the ferns grow out. Then clip at the end of the season.
Like year one, you may harvest one or two asparagus from your plant, but you should avoid harvesting as much as possible, no matter how tempting it is.
Year Three
Now your asparagus should grow even thicker and stronger, and you can begin to harvest more of the stalks. Leave the smaller ones to continue growing and gather ones about the thickness of a pencil. To harvest the asparagus, you can simply clip at the dirt level with a sharp tool or by snapping it off with your fingers. One asparagus crown can produce up to about 13 spears during the mature years. This is why it’s best to wait until year three or four to actually begin harvesting.
Year Four and Beyond
Depending on growing conditions, whether you started by seed or crowns, and a bunch of other variables, this is when your asparagus should be fully matured and ready for fuller harvests. If you let them, the stalks will grow very long, so cut them when you wish and enjoy them right away. You can leave the stems on the plant until you want to eat them.
Up to 30-35 Years
Under the right conditions, asparagus can regrow season after season for up to 30-35 years! Even if you don’t plan to live in the same place for that long, starting your asparagus now means you can transplant it and let it continue growing later.
Pests and Diseases
When growing indoors, you have less pests and diseases to worry about. However, it’s important to know what to look out for with asparagus plants. When initially growing, you’ll want to be careful not to overwater your asparagus, as that could lead to fungi growth.
Asparagus rust is caused by a fungal disease and actually looks like rust is growing on your asparagus plants.
High humidity can cause cercospora needle blight. These look like lesions on your asparagus. To avoid this, allow good air circulation.
Keep soil pH levels above 6.0 to help avoid crown and root rot.
The common asparagus beetle and the spotted asparagus beetle will feed on the plant and cause browning or scarring. These may be noticeable around May when plants emerge. Soapy water will help control these pests.
Long Term Care
Asparagus is usually grown by itself. There are a few companion plants; however, asparagus doesn’t prefer competition or weeds. Since the ferns can grow quite large, you’re better off not planting anything with your asparagus.
Asparagus is hardy but thrives in full sun. You don’t live that long as a plant without being tough, and asparagus is one of the toughest. But don’t push it. Be sure to provide plenty of sun during the growing season and warmth and cover during winter.
Each season, cut the ferns down to the soil and allow them to turn brown. You can cover the plant with mulch and its natural growth. Keep the plant dry and warm. Because the plant goes dormant, it does not require watering or fertilizer.
When the new season begins, remove the mulch or compost to avoid disease and fungi. Then feed and water your asparagus to start the entire process over again.
Large asparagus ferns can be quite the showstopper when people visit. After your plants mature, you can add to their showsGrow Garlic and Onions Indoors
If you have big indoor gardening dreams but live in a small apartment, it may seem like the options of what you can grow are far too limited. The truth is, there are a lot of plants and vegetables out there that can be catered to your needs and customized to the space you have available. Two of those vegetables are garlic and onions.
With just a bit of planning, wise space usage, and this guide, you can ensure that you will never have to buy onions or garlic again.
First up is the enemy of vampires everywhere.
Garlic
The recorded history of garlic cultivation dates back more than 4,000 years in Mesopotamia. It also dates back thousands of years in China and Egypt. Amazingly, well-preserved garlic was found in the tomb of King Tut. In English cuisine, garlic usage dates back to the mid-1500s. Today, garlic is used widely worldwide as a seasoning and condiment. It’s a central component used across Asia, the Middle East, northern Africa, southern Europe, and Latin America.
China currently produces about 76% of the world’s garlic supply.
Health Benefits of Garlic
Medicinally, garlic has been used traditionally in Egypt, Japan, Greece, China, and Rome. Today, science has shown many benefits of garlic, including:
High in Nutrition/Low in Calories
One clove of garlic contains just 4.5 calories, .2 grams of protein, and 1 gram of carbs. It also contains vitamins C, B1, B6, manganese, selenium, fiber, calcium, copper, potassium, phosphorous, and iron.
Combats the Common Cold
In one study, garlic reduced the number of colds and helped the study group recover from cold symptoms quicker.
To Reduce Blood Pressure
Multiple studies have shown that garlic supplements (equivalent to about four cloves per day) significantly reduce blood pressure in people with high blood pressure.
Improves Cholesterol and Lowers the Risk of Heart Disease
LDL is considered the “bad” cholesterol, and garlic has been shown to lower it.
And Many More…
Garlic is considered quite the power food, offering many health benefits.
Planting Preparation – Choose Your Variety
Most common garlic comes in two different varieties. Each offers a unique flavor profile and slightly different growing conditions.
Softneck Garlic
Softneck garlic is what you find most commonly at the store. It grows best in warm climates. It has a mild flavor and typically smaller cloves. You can identify these varieties by the number of paper layers wrapped around the bulbs. To grow softneck varieties, you do not need to chill before planting.
Hardneck Garlic
Hardneck garlic grows best in colder climates and has a more robust flavor. The bulbs are often bigger and don’t last as long in storage. To grow hardneck varieties, chill the bulbs by placing them in a dark location at 40 degrees Fahrenheit for 40 to 45 days before planting. Your refrigerator will work for storage.
If you’re unsure which you want to grow, grab one of each from the grocer and give them a try to see which flavor you like best. Or try them both!
How to Grow Garlic
You can grow garlic directly from the bulbs. But, there is a catch. Some garlic producers spray a chemical on garlic to stunt its growth. They do this because people are less likely to buy produce that has started producing shoots. Because garlic (and other produce) sits in storage for a long time before making it on the shelves, not stunting their growth will cause them to be less desirable.
Unfortunately, for home gardeners, this growth stunting prevents them from propagating. So, you’ll want to purchase organic garlic or seeds from a supplier.
Container
Because the roots are shallow, you won’t need a deep container. One that is about 6 to 8 inches deep will do. The container should have drainage holes.
Soil & Fertilizer
Your soil should be light–vermiculite or perlite will allow good drainage. Potting soil should have some compost or a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in it. Use liquid fertilizer like seaweed, fish emulsion, or diluted liquid from a worm bin for best results.
Light
Garlic does best in a bright, sunny spot, though it can tolerate some shade. Roughly every plant will need about 6 to 8 hours of sun per day or under 12 hours under grow lights.
Water
Keep soil moist, but do not overwater.
Steps to Growing Garlic
- Depending on your variety, your garlic bulbs may need at least 40 days in a 40 degree Fahrenheit spot (like a refrigerator). If you’d prefer to grow baby garlic or garlic leaves, you do not need to chill.
- After chilling is complete, prepare the soil in a pot or planter.
- Gently separate the cloves from the bulb. Do not peel the cloves.
- Plant each clove about 3 inches deep and space them 4 to 6 inches apart.
- You can fit up to 4 garlic bulbs in a 1’x1′ box.
- With a little more upkeep, you can maximize your garlic growth by placing them 2 inches apart and plucking immature “green garlic” as it develops. This will allow four plants in a smaller 8″x8″ container.
- When planting the cloves, put the pointy side upward.
- Cover the bulbs with soil and tamp down to prevent them from pushing the soil up as they grow.
- Water the soil until moist.
- Water consistently, but poke your finger into the soil to test its dryness. Don’t judge moisture by the top surface only. Overwatering will cause your garlic to rot.
- Fertilize lightly when your garlic shoots are about 6 inches high. Repeat every two weeks until the plant is mature.
How to Harvest Garlic
After a week, you should begin to see shoots. After 2 to 3 weeks, the shoots will produce leaves. If you are growing full bulbs, do not pick the leaves. But, if you are growing for the leaves or growing baby garlic, you may start harvesting the leaves anytime. As the plant grows, more leaves will grow on the outside and can be used in cooking. If your plants produce a curved scape, cut it off and use it in cooking. Allowing this to grow will make it flower and reduce the energy going to your bulbs.
After a few months, you can tell when your garlic is mature by half of its leaves turning brown. At this point, stop watering for a week and let the soil dry out. This prevents bulbs from rotting. To harvest the bulbs, dump out the container and pull out the bulbs.
Keep some of the larger bulbs to start your next batch.
Cure Your Garlic
Hang the garlic bulbs in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated place for a few weeks. This is a crucial step to ensure that your garlic stores well. You’ll know the garlic is cured when the leaves and roots are dry, and the outer wrapper feels papery. Large bulbs take longer to finish curing.
Remove the outer layer of paper to clean, but don’t remove too much of it. Cured garlic can last for months in a cool, dry, and dark place.
Ways to Use Garlic
Depending on how much garlic you’ve grown and how much you use, you may need to find additional ways to use your garlic. You can chop your garlic cloves into “small pucks” of 1 to 2 tablespoon portions and store them in the freezer.
Garlic can be dehydrated and turned into a powder with a food processor or grinder.
Need more garlic? Skins can be used for stock and broth. Simply keep them in a bag and in the freezer until you need them.
Once you’ve harvested, use the box again to start a new plant.
How Many Boxes or Pots of Garlic to Grow
Ultimately, deciding how much garlic to grow depends on how much garlic you need or want in your life! One garlic clove will grow into one garlic plant–which will give you multiple cloves, 5 to 10, depending on the variety. Since the growing pots or boxes are shallow, you can go with a tiered stacking method to save space and grow multiple garlic plants at once. You can even stagger your production to ensure you never run out.
Growing garlic can take about 7 to 9 months. This sounds like a long process, but once you have it up and running, you’ll be producing fresh bulbs in no time.
To decide how many boxes or planters to use, consider how many cloves you need per week. Suppose you use 3 to 4 cloves weekly, and each container holds about 20 to 30 cloves. In that case, you’ll need about one container (3 to 4 bulbs) every 8 to 10 weeks. If you stagger your growth, you can have garlic all year long with just 3 to 4 boxes on rotation. Also, garlic stores for a long time, so if you guesstimate incorrectly, simply adjust.
Onions
Onions have changed dramatically over the centuries. The origins of onions are unknown, but traces have been discovered dating back as far as 5,000 BC in China. Onions were used in Egyptian burials, and traces were found around the eyes of Ramesses IV. Onions were first taken to North America by European settlers, but they discovered that native Americans were already using them.
As of 2019, 4.5 million tonnes of onions and shallots are produced worldwide, with China producing 22%.
Different Types of Onions
Common onions come in three color varieties; yellow/brown, red/purple, and white. Yellow or brown onions are sweeter and often used in European cuisine. Red or purple onions offer a sharp pungent flavor and are used widely in Asian cuisine. White onions are mild-flavored onions that turn sweet when cooked and used traditionally in Mexican cuisine.
Of course, there are many more types of onions than these. Green onions, scallions, Spanish onions, cipollini, Vidalia, shallots…the list is endless.
For the sake of this guide, we’ll go into the bulb onions (yellow, red, and white), and we’ll even explain how to grow green onions from store-bought ones.
It’s important to note that onions are toxic to dogs, cats, guinea pigs, and many other animals.
The Health Benefits of Onions
Without getting too in the weeds, onions offer several health benefits:
- They are high in nutrients and low in calories
- Some studies show that onions fight inflammation
- They are loaded with antioxidants
- Onions contain some compounds that are said to fight cancer
- They help control blood sugar
- Onions have antibacterial properties
- They may boost digestive health
And more! Another great benefit of onions is that their flexibility makes adding onions to your diet really easy. You can add onions to soups and stews, cook as a side dish, and add to a wide range of cuisines. Like garlic, you can even dehydrate your onions and crush them into a powder for more extended storage and even easier application to meals.
How to Grow Yellow, Red, and White Onions
Even in a small apartment, you can grow big bulb onions. Here’s what you’ll need:
Container
Choose a container that is 6 to 10 inches deep. It doesn’t have to be especially wide.
Soil
Choose nitrogen-rich soil with a pH level of 6.5 or higher.
Type of Onion to Plant
There are two important distinctions to be aware of when choosing which onions to plant. There are long-day and short-day onions. Long-day onion types require 14 to 16 hours of light per day. Short-day ones need 12 to 14 hours per day. Choose based on available sunlight or grow light area.
Growing From Onion Sets
Most people choose onion sets to start their onion plants. These small onion bulbs establish quickly and are sold specifically for gardening. They will grow into a full bulb in about 3 ½ months. The sets also protect from frost damage and offer a higher success rate.
Plant onion sets that are ¾ inches in diameter. Bigger ones may go to seed too quickly. They should be planted in soil to cover the entire bulb, up to the shoot or green of the top (less than one inch). Space onion sets about 4 to 5 inches apart.
Growing From Propagation
You can propagate store-bought onions or onions from a previous harvest very easily. Simply slice off about one inch of your onion from the root side. Place the sliced onion top, root down, in a container of water. Only the bottom of the onion and the roots should be submerged. Place the container in the sun or under grow lights. Replace the water every couple of days.
Once roots have grown about an inch or two (should only take 3 to 7 days depending on placement), use scissors to cut off the onion “meat” without damaging the onion roots or shoots. Place your onion, root down, into a pot of soil. Soil should reach the bottom of the shoots.
Growing From Onion Seeds
If growing from seeds, you can start your seeds in small containers or cells to get them started. You’ll want to use soil that is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant two seeds per cell or small container about ¼ to ½ inches deep. If planting straight into a pot or planter, ensure that the onion seeds are at least 4 inches apart.
Maintain damp soil to promote germination.
Once onions are in their pots:
- Keep in an area that gets full sun.
- Water onion plants from the bottom up to avoid rot.
- Fertilize your onion plants every few weeks with nitrogen to encourage bigger bulbs. You can stop fertilizing when the onions have pushed the soil away and the bulbing process has started.
- Allow the bulb to emerge from the soil and place mulch or straw around the top to help retain moisture and allow air circulation.
How to Harvest Onions
Onions take 2 to 3 months to fully develop. As the onions grow, you can snip 3 to 4 inches from their shoots and use them as you would the shoots of green onions. But, be sure to leave plenty on the onion. Snipping the shoots also encourages more growth. When onions start to mature, the tops become yellow and fall over. Loosen the soil around the bulbs to promote drying.
When the tops are brown, you can harvest the onions. It’s best if they are very dry, and you should handle them carefully when harvesting.
How to Store Onions
Begin by clipping the roots back to 1 to 2 inches. Let the onions cure in a warm, dry spot for a few days. If you want to store your onions instead of using them right away, keep onions in a well-ventilated area between 40 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not store onions in the refrigerator, as this will encourage rot.
Onions should not be stored next to apples, pears, or potatoes. Check on your onions periodically, and remove any extra growth that may occur. Save the tops to start your next crop as you use the onions.
How to Grow Green Onions
Growing green onions from cuttings is very simple!
- Slice off the end of the green onion, leaving the bulb and a small piece of the shoot.
- Do not slice off or remove the roots.
- Place the bulb, root down, into a jar filled with water. Ensure that the top part is sticking out of the water.
- Place the jar in a windowsill and replace the water every few days.
- Once the shoots reach about 4 to 5 inches, you can use them in cooking.
- Or you can transplant these into nitrogen-rich soil to help them grow fuller and longer.
- Cut the stems all the way down to the soil when harvesting to encourage them to continue growing.
- If planting multiple green onions, space them 2 to 4 inches apart.
Using this method, you will never run out of green onions!
How Many Boxes or Pots of Onion to Grow
Onions are very versatile and can go in a lot of different foods. Deciding how many onion plants to grow in your apartment ultimately depends on you. While onion planter boxes need to be 6 to 10 inches deep, they do not need to be especially wide. In the case of green onions, the container can be even smaller!
Consider using a tiered or shelf system to place your onion pots on. You can even mix it up by placing the large bulb onion plants on the bottom and the smaller green onions on top!
Onions take roughly 100 to 175 days to mature from plant to harvest. Like garlic, this seems like a long time. Still, with careful planning and staggered growing, you can ensure that you always have some onions available. Onions can be stored for a long time, so if you notice your supply is running low, adjust your staggering.
If you use half a quarter of an onion a week, you should plant a new onion plant every four weeks. You’ll also want to produce roughly 6 to 8 small boxes of onions. Fewer boxes if using bigger ones with multiple onion plants in them. Of course, you can supplement that with smaller green onions, which pack quite a lot of flavor into tiny green shoots.
Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand exactly how fun and simple it is to grow asparagus indoors as well as onions and garlic inside your small apartment all year long.
Enjoy!